Picnic Photos: Lichères & Moutonneau

Jul 09, 2023

I’ve been sharing my weekly picnic photos with friends and followers for years since our move to France. So now that I have a SubStack account, why not with my friends here too?

Lichères is home to the remarkable Saint-Denis priory church. The plaque (translated here) gives more info:

The Saint-Denis church, built in the first third of the 12th century, is one of the most remarkable in the Charente. Ultimate proof of a priory dependent on the Poitevine abbey of Charroux, it combines the influences of Angoumois [of Angoulême] and Poitou [region]. The building has one of the rare naves with three vessels of the former diocese of Angoulême. This has lost its barrel vaults, but the narrow side aisles, which indirectly illuminate the central nave, are still delimited by large semi-circular arches on cylindrical columns. The capitals are smooth, with simple windings at the corners, and it can be assumed that they had painted decoration. This archaic formula evokes models from the 11th century Poitou region. Another peculiarity of small quadrangular chapels form passages bypassing the pillars of the crossing between the apsidioles of the transept and the straight bays of the choir. We find such annexes in several Charente churches such as Mouthiers-sur-Boëme or Champniers in the 12th century. The dome on pendentives of the crossing of the transept is characteristic of Angoumois, and the decor of arcades which animates the radiating chapel is one of most beautiful of the old diocese, even if one also finds some in Poitou. Apart from the capitals of the nave, the very rich sculpture is inspired by the brains of the cathedral of Angoulême. The curious tympanum of the western portal with its segmental arched lintel can be compared to that of Champagne-Mouton, not far from there. Finally, on the south transept, there is an exceptional transenne window or openwork stone trellis with geometric patterns, of which there are two other examples in Fenioux and Petit-Niort, in Saintonge, but on naves from the 11th century.

12th century Romanesque church — The Saint-Denis church of Lichères

It was a hot one today. Hiking by the river lent some welcome refreshment. One crosses the river via several small bridges, and at one point, a boat on a pulley. Early morning rain filled the boat, but we were undeterred. Another couple crossing at the same time helped us as we took turns standing on one side of the boat forcing the water to one side while we scrambled in turn on the high side to avoid wet feet.